Indonesia, Lombok, Mt Rinjani

Lombok, Indonesia.

This year, our vacations mixed with running were taking us to Lombok, Indonesia. The plan was to run Mount Rinjani Ultra. A run, I had in my mind for the last 2 years. It follows the trekking route up to Mt Rinjani with 52k with approximately 5200m up and 5200m down.

Sun is slowly coming out on the way up to Mt Rinjani

Ten days prior to the run, with Sai, we set off to Lombok. As soon as we landed, we drove to Mt Rinjani foothills, Senaru. Sai never experienced big mountains so I thought it could be a good way to show her how nice it is to spend long days in beautiful surroundings. As expected, it was not an easy journey but she surprised me in many ways, keeping calm, digging deep and invoking a free access to Cat Café, I could not say no. 

  

Rinjani is a magical place which offers beautiful views, sunrise and sunset. The only downside is the respect of the nature. Trails are amazingly polluted, trekking are luxurious (super comfortable, lot of food) and it generates waste which are not carried down by nearly all trekking companies. After 3 days of superb trekking, we carried our heavy legs for some rest on Gili Islands and Senggigi. Basically doing nothing apart from enjoying the beaches and quietness. On the race day, I met up with Regis, a French runner I first met at UTMF and TMBT. Starting time was at 10pm but we had to register at 10am. We killed the time talking with other runners, reading, trying to sleep (I could not) and going to Senaru waterfalls.

The North Face Thailand 100 in 2012, first meet up with Ray

Before starting, I met some old buddies, Razif and Alvin that I had the chance to pace at UTCM 2015, a 3 days run between Chiang Mai and Chiang Dao. To my surprise, there are also Thai runners, easily recognizable with their Thai flagged wooden sticks who were surprised as well to see a foreigner coming and greeting them in Thai.

The race starts with 10k of climb passing from jungle trail (600m) to open space trails (2600m). I try to push hard on the first 3k which are runnable in order to not be stuck in the traffic. Very quickly, I can feel the heat in the legs. Scenery when we are coming out of the jungle is fabulous. Open space with hundred stars. Headlamp is nearly useless. I can spot 4 small lighthouses above me trying to make their way up the first rim.

Maybe too enchanted by the trails, I don't notice the markers and follow some trails straight up the mountain instead of taking a turn to follow the ridge. With an Indonesian runner, we continue our climb until some porters awaken by our lights tell us to go back down. In the process, 4/5 runners, including Regis, followed us on the wrong way. At least, it permits me to start talking with Ullas, an Indian runner, that I saw at North Face Thailand. After sometimes, we finally managed to find our way to the first check point which marks the start of a super technical descent to the lake: 600m in 3k. We are small group trying to run. One after each other, we slip, fall but fortunately nobody get a bad one. When we reach the lake, there is a 3k window for running. I have some strange pain in the legs and can't cruise as I wanted. This lead us to 2k climb back to 2600m for one of the hardest section of the course. I stick with Regis. We are both suffering a lot. Time to time, I am lying on the ground in foetus position due to stomach cramps. We are relieved when we arrive at the second rim, base camp prior to start final ascend to Mt Rinjani. We are out since 5h and I have run/walk/crawl only 17k. We can see the trails enlightened by Trekkers lamps. They are already on their way up the first section. Trails are congested but it is not a bad news because it make it easier for us to push because steps are already imprinted in the sand. Somebody already struggled before... At the end of the first section, I find myself alone. The climb is really fun as we are mixed with surprised trekker who cheer us or question us. A good way to keep life in my sleepy body.

Before the start the final section, I see 2 runners flying down (1h30 ahead of me). The last hundred meters are very tough as we are opening the trail. Rinjani catch phrase is completely making sense in this situation: one step up, two steps down. To my surprise, there is no check at the top, only 3 American trekkers who started very early. It is 5am.

Sunrise at Sembalun Rim while refuelling

No time to wait for the sunrise, the way down is super fun: running / sliding in between Trekkers. Not sure, they enjoyed the dusty cloud created. I also have a chance to meet Ray on his way up. At the rim, I take some time for refill and make the next downhill with Regis and Ullas. 

Unfortunately, on the way down,I am having a bad jump reception. Ankle went off and is really painful. At the checkpoint, I let Ullas and Regis go ahead. Race is finished for me, now it is just a matter 'get this done'. In the coming uphill, I catch up with Ullas. Many runners coming down cannot continue the race, injured or broken by the climbs. They are on their way to Sembalun, closest village, in order to get on the back of a truck. This is one of the race specificity, if anything happens, you are on your own, and have to get down to the next village. Back to the rim, a Hong Kongese runner joins us. We will make most of our journey back together. We are smashed and move at snail pace. After refilling at Senaru rim, we start walking the last 10k downhill. As I just want to finish as soon as possible, I leave my companions and run the downhill. My ankle takes off a second time. Finally after 16h25, I cross the line, 6th. This run is not really a race but more a journey. I am glad I spent this journey with nice guys.

It was very tough for the body, I had the impression to be on the edge all day. Having stomach issues did not make it easier. I had the impression to run on an empty tank no matter how much food I was eating.

Rinjani is definitely a run I want to do again. It is a must for anyone who like big mountains.